Tariff Talk 3.0: It’s Just Yarn…Or is it?

Something we say around the office as a sort-of inside joke is It’s Just Yarn. It usually stems from a stressful event or when we need a reality check. Taking ourselves too seriously, when “all” we do is sell yarn, and not, say, run a company that actively saves lives, seems ridiculous. Our yarn isn’t precious, it isn’t solving world problems, it doesn’t contain multitudes: It’s just yarn.

Or is it? Every yarn that we develop is made for a reason. Sometimes the reason is clear: Germantown is a revival of a centuries old yarn that was originally produced in Philadelphia. Keystone uses deadstock acrylic and blends it with Germantown wool to make a US made yarn that is affordable and easy care. Lucky and Cricket are produced in a mill in Ireland devoted to maintaining a centuries old textile tradition that began as a cottage industry. Erin is made in the same mill from Irish wool in an effort to revive the Irish grown wool industry, etc. Sometimes, the specific purpose isn’t as clear, but it is never without intention. We make yarn we like and want to knit with that can be made with our mission and values top of mind.
Unknown Maker, Azerbaijani, Cover. C. 1600-1700. Bequest of Miss Lucy Truman Aldrich to the RISD Museum.

Global Trade

Global trade has existed for over 8000 years. Many point to the Silk Road, named after the trade of woven silks from China 4000 years ago, as the first truly global route. It is also considered to be partially responsible for the spread of the Black Death (my absolute favorite topic) throughout Europe in the early 14th Century, leading to a drastic change in the Feudal system, a greater freedom for serfs, increased wages, and a higher standard of living. Trade between nations—whether through force or agreement—has always played a major role in the way we, as individuals, participate in commerce.

Despite intermittent interruptions from wars, famine, plague (including COVID), global trade has thrived throughout the centuries. Helped in part by a variety of governmental trade agreements designed to break down barriers (remember NAFTA?), international trade continues to be a vital part of the world economy to this day.
Image courtesy of NOAA

Cause and Effect

Despite the way global trade brought countries together prior to the internet, obscure, small, or remote products were still mostly out of reach. In most instances, the only way to buy a yarn entirely sourced and spun in small batches was to visit the farm or mill where it was produced. The Internet further expanded our ability to engage in commerce, enabling smaller countries and businesses to gain previously inaccessible customers. Suddenly someone in Chicago could purchase a yarn from over 4,000 miles away and have it arrive on their doorstep without stepping foot outside the country. The benefit of this trade extends beyond the small brand expanding her business, and the customer working with a unique and special product and extends to the farmers producing the wool, mill workers spinning the yarn, and freight employees shipping the package.

But there is a cost.

We’ve become accustomed to having anything and everything we want at a moment’s notice. The time between the desire for something—anything—and it landing on our doorstep can be mere minutes. This puts a strain on the environment and employees in innumerable and as yet completely understood ways. And, frankly, pretty much everyone I know complains that they have entirely too much stuff.

Small but Important Steps

A question we ask ourselves often is: How do we balance being a brand whose existence depends on commerce while also encouraging people to engage in commerce in an appropriate (and measured) way?

Just as we decide what yarns to develop based on our values, consumers decide what they want based on theirs. What matters to you? Is cost of utmost importance? Is it knowing the name of the farm where the wool came from? Or the confidence that the mill meets strict environmental and/or social standards? Do shipping distances drive your purchases? Are you only interested in buying from women- or minority-owned companies? Would you prefer to buy a product from halfway across the world knowing it cannot be produced anywhere else? There is a lot to consider, and no choice is better or more altruistic than another.

All of your choices matter and have an effect, for better or worse or somewhere in between. If you don’t know where to begin, start at a brand’s about page. See what they say about their values, if they identify who the actual owners are, if there are any certifications that demonstrate the brand’s commitment to issues you support, and where they’re located. You can find out a lot about a company, large or small, especially if you take a moment to read between the lines. (If you get to the bottom of the about page and have learned nothing, that can speak volumes as well!) From here, you can learn more and make decisions that make the most sense to you.Courtney and I, Kelbourne Woolens's owners and founders, involved in every aspect of the business since Day 1.

In Conclusion

As with the two previous Tariff Talks, we sincerely hope this final installment has given you a little history, some knowledge, and some action you can take. Remember, nothing is black and white, more than one thing can be true at the same time, and there is long and complicated back story to much of what we think and do. Commerce has changed and evolved throughout history, and one thing has remained the same: People have always found a way to make beautiful things with yarn and they always will!