Let's take a peek into our vast and wide-ranging collection of books! 
Nordic Knitting: Thirty-One Patterns in the Scandinavian Tradition by Susanne Pagoldh was one of the first books that sparked my interest in traditional and historical knitting. Courtney and I have a few copies of this (also) out of print book in our possession, mine was a gift (sensing a theme here?) from her back in 2008ish when she visited Powell's Books in Portland.
Originally published in Sweden in 1987, Interweave Press translated the text into English and published this edition in 1991. I'm not sure when it went out of print, and despite being one of my most favorite books, I cannot recommend spending over $1,000 on a copy.
The book is divided into 10 chapters, the first Technique and Style, a slightly haphazard overview of the many ways knitters can manipulate the fabric, including fulling, tvåändsstickning, types of wools used, and steeking. Following this introduction, the next eight chapters are Denmark, The Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Åland, and Finland. Finally, a chapter with the designs featured throughout, including a basic model in 3 sizes.
Much more a history book than pattern book, there is a vast array of information about the history of each locale, when knitting began, how sheep farming and wool influenced the economy and geography, and how the patterns and styles differed.
Carina Pagoldh designed this sweater made from hair and flax based off of a Fisherman's wool sweater from the Herning Museum in Jutland.
The Denmark chapter begins with a description of a mummified corpse said to be "the Earl of Bothwell, a Scottish nobleman who abducted Queen Mary Stuart and forced her to marry him", and then beautifully flows into a description of the knit stockings he was wearing when buried. (Tudor history and knitting? Be still my heart!)
A sweater based off of an 18th century nightshirt designed by Krisitina Lindkvist features knit/purl patterning and two-end knitting.
Most knitters today know Denmark as the land of fuzzy, minimal knits in mostly-neutral colors, but a tradition spanning over 400 years is bound to have changed dramatically over time. Unlike other Scandinavian countries who favored colorwork, knit/purl patterning and knitted stockings were popular in Denmark throughout the centuries.
The view from our Airbnb when we visited Faroe in 2018.
The Faroe Islands are a self governing archipelago of 18 small islands off of Denmark. Their long history with wool and sheep farming dates back to at least the 1500s, and there are multiple yarn companies and a strong knitting tradition across all 18 islands to this day, including one of our partner brands, Navia Yarns. (For more on the islands, you can read my post about our visit here, and an interview with the owner of Navia Yarns here.)
A traditional Faroese shawl from the Faroese Handcraft Center.
This book was my first deep introduction to the Faroese unique style of knitting, and the traditional Faroese shawl shape was the inspiration behind the Margarethe Shawl from our (also out of print!) book, Vintage Modern Knits.
One of the more surprising chapters details the (relatively short) history of knitting in Greenland, including the use of hare, dog, and fox fiber to spin particularly warm and fine yarn. Beginning in the 1500s, may attempts at colonization and religious conversion in the area occurred over the following 450 years, and knitting began in the mid 1800s. Soon after followed a dedicated sheep breeding program utilizing sheep imported from both Faroe and Greenland.
Wool from Ellen K. Frederiksen's Illunnguujuk Sheep Farm. Image © Visit South Greenland.
As expected, the knitwear reflected the specific needs of the region and climate, and mittens, hats, and sweaters were most popular. At the time of the book's publication, there was no wool processing on Greenland. Recent efforts, including the Greenlandic Sheep Wool Project led in part by Ellen Frederiksen, the wife of a direct descendant of owners of the first inuk-owned sheep farm in the country, Otto and Tiipaaraq Frederiksen, are hoping to change this.
Icelandic Roðskór, soft shoes made from fish skin with knitted sole.
Unlike Greenland's relatively short knitting history, the oldest piece of knitting from Iceland is estimated to be from the early 1500s. Industry was supported by both men, women, and children as young as 8, with the family gathering every evening in the baðstofa (sitting room) to listen to sagas, teach the children how to read, and knit. Christmas was a particularly prolific time, as new clothing was required, lest the children be eaten by Jólaköttur, Grýla's pet cat.
A classic Icelandic Lopapeysa. Pattern provided by the Alafoss Wool Spinnery.
Most everyone familiar with knitting knows about the iconic Icelandic colorwork yoke sweaters known as lopapeysa, so it is surprising to know the first "official" lopapeysa patterns did not become ubiquitous until the mid 20th century. Nordic Knitting identifies Elsa E. Guðjónsson as the publisher of the first pattern, but other sources claim Auður Sveinsdóttir as the original designer.
As an aside, the first lopapeysa designs were influenced by Norwegian designs, which were initially influenced by Greenlandic Inuit national costume, specifically the nuilarmiut, or beaded collars. While Nordic Knitting acknowledges the role colonialism plays in history, it does not specifically discuss this direct appropriation.
(L), a modern (1990s) interpretation of the Setesdal sweater designed by Merete Lütken paired with (R) a garment from the 1950s.
Another of Nordic Knitting's claims to fame (can a 39-year-old out of print book boast fame?) is teaching me about Setesdal knitting from Norway, particularly lice stitch sweaters known as lusekofta. I went through a bit of an obsession with the style, beginning with my Telemark Legwarmers back in 2011 (should probs reknit those in Scout, eh?) up through Baxter Peak in Camper.
Originating in the 1850s Selbu knitting gained prominence in the 1930s after the decline in the millstone industry in the region. Much like Bohus knitting, the residents formed a handcraft center in order to regulate and promote knitted goods of the highest quality.
Sweden appears to have the most diverse knitting history, from Bohus to twined knitting, to embroidery. Like most other countries, knitting was a booming industry in the 19th century, and one year in the 1850s boasted 96,000 sweaters, 66,000 pairs of stockings, and 28,000 pairs of mittens knit in the Laholm district alone. At the time of publication, 10 knitters still worked for the Halland Knitting Cooperative, but from what I can tell, it sadly closed in 2011.
A traditional folk costume from Dlarna features a woven body paired with colorwork knit sleeves knit in black and white, then dyed and fulled for strength. The sturdiness of this garment is easily demonstrated by the quantity of sleeves featured in museums throughout the region.
An example of a Bohus chart with color swatches from the Bohuslan Museum.
Bohus might be the most well known knitting tradition from Sweden, and is one that Courtney has researched extensively. You can read more about this unique colorwork and the cooperative founded by Emma Jacobsson here.
Åland, an autonomous archipelago off the coast of southern Finland, is probably the least well known of the 8 regions. I did appreciate the text "We can be certain that people have been knitting on the islands since a last the seventeenth century because Pastor Boetius Murenius noted in 1648 that a man from Thomos denies having "hit and pinched" a woman while she was knitting."
Maybe "appreciate" isn't the right word, because this unnamed man from Thomos needs to mind his business and leave the women of Åland alone.
One interesting and unique technique of Åland knitting is the double layered hat that has become more popular in recent years. A sample found in 1961 during a Jomala church excavation is dated around 1745.
Black and white or sheep-colored neutrals are frequently replaced by reds, blues, greens, and yellows in Finland's traditional knitwear. Unique to the region are Korsnäs sweaters, intricate and fine stranded garments in red and white with colorful accents that incorporate both knitting and crochet. Dating back to 1854, the tradition is still popular today.
A traditional Korsnäs knit and crocheted by Gretel Dahlberg, who used natural dyes to create the vibrant colors.
The images of the 32 patterns in the back of the book are scattered throughout the text. Comprised of both original designs and those provided by museums or local knitters, many follow a simple "base pattern" that allows the knitter to modify and adjust as they please. As with many Scandinavian and vintage patterns, the sizing is limited; the largest size of the base sweater is is a 49" (124 cm) finished bust, but others do go up slightly to 52" (132 cm).
Along with sweaters, there are a few pairs of mittens, beaded writstwarmers, and even a protest cap, something as timely today as it was almost 40 years ago!
***
Are y'all sick of Scandanavia yet? I was thinking of doing Everyday Knitting: Treasures from a Ragpile by Annemor Sundbo next but a quick search tells me it is out of print as well. Is this Book Report project actually a love letter to out of print books? (And who do I need to bother to get them republished?)
