The body and sleeves of Keswick are worked flat in pieces. After blocking, the sweater is seamed, and stitches are picked up for the buttonband to be worked back and forth. When shaping the raglan decreases, make sure to keep the first and last two stitches in stockinette stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side). When shaping the fronts at the neck and raglan, work all stitches in pattern whenever possible. In the case of having insufficient stitches for completing a cable twist, work these stitches in stockinette stitch. In order for the raglan and neck shaping to work out effectively and to get a proper fit, it is important both your stitch and row gauge match the gauge given in the pattern. You will begin working the front neck shaping prior to working the armhole shaping. Work the back first, and then count the number of rows on the back to help you determine the total number of front rows you need to work prior to beginning the neck shaping. Read through the full right and left front directions before beginning.
DESIGNER: Kate Gagnon Osborn
YARN: The Fibre Co. Cumbria (90% wool, 10% mohair; 238 yds/100 gm skein): scaffel pike (01), 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins.
GAUGE: 20 sts + 26 rows = 4“ (10 cm) in moss stitch on larger needles, after blocking.
NEEDLES: 1 - 24” (60 cm) and 40 or 60” (100 or 150 cm) US 5 (3.75 mm) circulars and set dpns. 1 - 24” (60 cm) US 6 (4 mm) circular and set dpns, or size to obtain gauge.
FINISHED SIZE: 34 (38, 42, 45, 49, 53)” [86.25 (96.5, 106.75, 114.24, 124.5, 134.75) cm] finished bust.
• For a tutorial on working cables without a cable needle, visit our Tips + Tricks here.
• For a tutorial on seaming using the mattress stitch, visit our Tips + Tricks here.
• For a tutorial on picking up the perfect number of stitches, visit our Tips + Tricks here.
Photography by Amanda Stevenson Lupke