Knightsbridge Collection Feature / GILLAM: TUCK STITCHES

For the next couple of weeks we'll be profiling the designers featured in the Knightsbridge Collection with some insight into their process, tips + tricks about their garment or accessory, fun interviews, and other little tid-bits. We hope you enjoy getting to know the Kelbourne Woolens team and contributing designers. To view the full pattern line, check out the Knightsbridge Collection on Ravelry here

Today Kate will talk about her Knightsbridge design, Gillam, and is providing a tutorial on working the tuck stitches that appear on the sweater front.

tuck stitches title image.jpg

KGO: The Gillam pullover is one of my most favorite sweater designs to date. A classic, fitted pullover with set in sleeves, a flattering neckline, and a textured tuck and cable pattern on the front, I find it to be effortlessly wearable, and - bonus! - it was a really fun knit. I have received a bunch of questions from people asking for a little more clarification on how to work the 3 row tuck, so I thought a photo tutorial would be perfect for my contribution to our Knightsbridge Collection feature!

KELBOURNE WOOLENS TIPS + TRICKS / TUCK STITCH:
The body of Gillam is worked in the round, and then divided at the armholes and the fronts and backs are worked separately. The stitch pattern is 6 rounds, with a cable every 6th round, and the tuck stitch worked every 3rd round. As a result, you will work the tuck stitch on both RS + WS rows after the armhole division. 

TUCK STITCH / RS ROWS (WORKED IN THE ROUND & WORKED FLAT):
Regardless of whether you are working the tuck in the round or flat, the stitch is worked the same on all right side rows:

1. Once you reach the tuck stitch on the chart, locate the purl stitch two rows below the first stitch on your LH needle. After you have worked a few repeats of the pattern, you may notice that the stitch that you are looking for is the stitch that you worked as the tuck on the previous repeat.

2. With the working yarn in front, insert your right-hand needle into the stitch you've identified from back to front in preparation to work a purl stitch. Your needle will be below the left hand needle. Make sure your needle is only through this stitch - do not try to also "catch" the stitch directly above it, or the stitch on the needle.

3. Purl the stitch! There is nothing "different" you need to do in this step - just pretend the stitch 2 rows below is still on the needle and work it accordingly!

4. The final step is where the tuck really happens. By sliding the stitch (and, subsequently, the two below it) off of the left-hand needle, you're effectively "dropping" them. Since you've caught the stitches 2 rows below with the stitch you've worked as a purl, the two dropped stitches are held - or, in other words, you're stopping them at the purl from dropping further. Depending on the stickiness of the fibers (I found Knightsbridge to be a little sticker than the Organik I used for my swatch), you may need to tug the stitches slightly. 

That's it! This is the way you will work the tuck throughout the whole body. As I mentioned above, though, when working back and forth on the front, you will also be working the tuck stitch on the wrong side of the fabric:

TUCK STITCH / WS ROWS (WORKED FLAT):
1. Once you reach the tuck stitch on the chart, locate the knit stitch two rows below the first stitch on your LH needle. After you have worked a few repeats of the pattern, you may notice that the stitch that you are looking for is the stitch that you worked as the tuck on the previous repeat.

2. With the working yarn in back, insert your right-hand needle into the stitch you've identified from front to back in preparation to work a knit stitch. Your needle will be below the left hand needle. Make sure your needle is only through this stitch - do not try to also "catch" the stitch directly above it, or the stitch on the needle.

3. Knit the stitch! There is nothing "different" you need to do in this step - just pretend the stitch 2 rows below is still on the needle and work it accordingly!

4. The final step is where the tuck really happens. By sliding the stitch (and, subsequently, the two below it) off of the left-hand needle, you're effectively "dropping" them. Since you've caught the stitches 2 rows below with the stitch you've worked as a knit, the two dropped stitches are held - or, in other words, you're stopping them at the purl from dropping further. As with working on the RS row, depending on the stickiness of the fibers, you may need to tug the stitches slightly. 

That's it! This is the way you will work the tuck on the WS rows (Row 3 of the chart) on the yoke . Hopefully this tutorial helped clarify the stitch for anyone looking for a little more help on working the stitch pattern. Happy Knitting! - KGO

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