Vogue Winter 2015/2016: Fitted Hat

I was recently asked to design a project for the Bohus inspired story in the newest Vogue Knitting magazine, and immediately thought of creating a hat out of four shades of The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering. Unlike the angora-heavy yarns of traditional Bohus, the Cumbria Fingering has a very subtle halo from the mohair, making for a more graphic and structural knit. 

The hat begins with one of my favorite treatments: a provisional Cast on, deep ribbing, and folded brim. The body of the hat is worked in stranded colorwork in a geometric patterning, and the additional purl stitches are reminiscent of the soft, watercolor-esque patterning Bohus is known for. 

Hats are a wonderful way to introduce yourself to a new yarn or unfamiliar technique. In the case of this design, (the oh-so-descriptively named "#3 Fitted Hat"), the pattern repeat is only six stitches, and floats are never more than four stitches across. Even with the addition of purl stitches, or a 3rd color in the round, the repeat is easy to memorize, leaving you plenty of opportunity to concentrate on your tension and technique. 

SPECIFICATIONS:
• Yarn:
 The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering: hadrian’s wall (75) (MC), scaffel pike (01) (CC1), windermere (66) (CC2), helvellyn (16) (CC3), 1 skein each.
• Gauge: 26 sts + 32 rnds = 4“ (10 cm) in stranded colorwork on larger needles, after blocking. 
• Needles: 1 - 16” (40 cm) US 3 (3.25 mm) circular. 1 set US 3 (3.25 mm) dpns. 1 - 16” (40 cm)  US 1 (2.25 mm) circular. Spare 1 - 16” (40 cm) US 1 (2.25 mm) circular for provisional cast on.
• Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker, smooth waste yarn of comparable gauge, 3.25 mm (D) crochet hook from provisional cast on. 
• Size: 18.5” circumference, unstretched. 8.625” height.
• Skills: Knitting, purling, provisional cast on, stranded Bohus colorwork.

- KGO

Guest Post: Bristol Ivy on the Bristol Ivy Collection

Today, I am delighted to share a guest post by Bristol Ivy, the designer behind our latest collection, the Bristol Ivy Collection

FROM BRISTOL:
"The genesis of a collection is always an interesting thing. In some cases, prevailing themes beg to be explored; in others, yarn takes a front seat and guides the intention of the collection. In the case of my new collection with Kelbourne Woolens in The Fibre Co. Cumbria and Cumbria Fingering, it was a little bit of both - plus a healthy dose of repeat viewings of many, many 1940s costume dramas on Netflix!

Bristol Ivy Collection Sketches

The first spark of this collection was my long-standing desire to play with angles, this time on a bed of ribbing and lace. The Fibre Co. yarns lend themselves so well to texture and openwork that I knew I wanted to use both to define the clean lines of the garments. I think you can do so much to create new perspectives on sweaters with the subtle placement of increases and decreases, and ribbing and eyelets or mesh highlight those shifts and turns so nicely. So I knew I wanted those stitches to be the focal points of the collection, and the first step was to translate it across several garments.

Above: Bristol's original swatch and sketch for what would become Prue in Cumbria Fingering.

The next thoughts came with the yarn itself. Cumbria, in both its fingering and worsted iterations, feels like such a toothy, drapey, inherently solid yarn to me, something that you can reckon on still being a favorite, non-pilly, wearable sweater ten years down the road. I wanted to keep that wearability and longevity in mind as I was designing, and pulled from classic and vintage silhouettes to ensure that the sweaters stayed in style long enough to do the yarn justice! There are little modern touches in each - Hylda’s dropped hem, Hester’s positive ease, Myrtle’s slightly cocooned hem, for example - but I wanted them to be able to transcend trends and be something that you reach for in your closet over and over again.

The best part of a collection for me, though, is the moment when it goes out into the world.  No matter what my thoughts were on it, no matter what meaning the genesis and the process had for me, it now becomes about the genesis of the knitters’ stories and their own processes of adding the sweaters to their lives.  And I can’t wait to see how those stories develop!"

Thanks so much Bristol! You can view the original collection announcement post here. - KGO

View the Bristol Ivy Collection
View The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering
View The Fibre Co. Cumbria

All modeled images by and © Carrie Bostick Hoge

Indedependent Designer Feature: Bellingham Mitts by Mel Ski

6 bits storybooks is an online publication that features beautiful photography and knitting patterns, founded by Melissa and Melody. The theme of the second issue, Dwell, is "all about the dwelling places we find in ourselves, places we long to create, experiences we need to share. We adventure together with friends along the shores of the Pacific Northwest and South Pacific."

Melissa designed a pair of fingerless mitts in The Fibre Co. Acadia, the Bellingham Mitts, for the issue.

You can read more about the full collection, including how to subscribe here

{all photos ©sixbitsstorybooks}

Introducing: The Bristol Ivy Collection

We're delighted to announce our second collection of the season, the Bristol Ivy Collection. Known for her unique approaches to construction, brilliant use of geometry, and feminine detailing, Bristol Ivy used The Fibre Co. Cumbria and The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering to great effect, creating a wearable, unique, and beautifully styled collection of sweaters that are as lovely to knit as they are to wear. Photographed beautifully by Carrie Bostick Hoge on the Maine coast, the designs are as modern as they are classic.

From Bristol:
"I am an unabashed lover of vintage fashion and costume drama, especially those based in a time period, like the 1940s, where handknits took center stage. I was inspired by the thought of bringing those vintage, feminine shapes and lines together with clean, architectural details and modern proportions. This collection is the result! Six sweaters, all worked in the hardy, drapey, infinitely wearable Cumbria and Cumbria Fingering, all with relaxed and flattering fits that harken back to the femininity and strength of the 1940s, and all with sharp architectural lines of ribbing and mesh to bring the details to the modern day."

THE DESIGNS

PRUE
Prue is worked in the round to the underarm, and then split to work back and forth. Short rows are used to shape the shoulders, which are then seamed. Sleeves are picked up and worked out from the body. When working the body section, Rounds 2 and 3 set the eyelet pattern referred to throughout the rest of the instructions.

YARN: The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering: helvellyn, 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) skeins.
GAUGE: 24 sts + 32 rows = 4” (10 cm) in St st, on larger needle, after blocking.
NEEDLES: 1 – 32” (80 cm) US 5 (3.75 mm) circular. 1 - set US 5 (3.75 mm) DPNs. 1 - 16” (40 cm) US 4 (3.5 mm) circular. 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 4 (3.5 mm) circular. 1 - set US 4 (3.5 mm) DPNs.
NOTIONS: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, safety pins for Japanese short rows.
SIZE: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66)” [96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5, 157.5, 167.5) cm]. 
SKILLS: Short row shaping.

Purchase Prue via Ravelry here.

LITA
Lita is worked in one piece from the top down. First, epaulets are worked separate for each shoulder, and then stitches are picked up along one edge, cast on, and picked up along the edge of the other epaulet. These stitches are worked down flat, and joined to work in the round at the underarm. All body shaping occurs in the back. Unless otherwise noted, slip all markers as you come to them.

DESIGNER: Bristol Ivy
YARN: The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering: buttermere, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins.
GAUGE: 23 sts + 30 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needle, after blocking.
NEEDLES: 1 – 32” (80 cm) US 5 (3.75 mm) circular. 1 - 16” (40 cm) US 3 (3.25 mm) circular. 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 3 (3.25 mm) circular. 1 - set US 3 (3.25 mm) DPNs.
NOTIONS: Stitch markers, tapestry needle.
SIZE: 37.5 (41.75, 46, 50, 54.25, 58.5, 62.5, 66.75)” [95.5 (106, 117, 127, 138, 148.5, 159, 169.5) cm] bust across full width of garment. When choosing a size, refer to the hem circumference.
SKILLS: Short row shaping, working lace from charts, picking up stitches.

Purchase Lita via Ravelry here.

VERA
Vera is worked as a top-down raglan cardigan. Please read through all Body instructions carefully, as multiple actions will occur at the same time. You will begin the neck shaping and the yoke shaping at the same time, and the neck shaping will continue after yoke shaping and separation for body and sleeves is complete.

YARN: The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering: castlerigg, 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins.
GAUGE:  24 sts + 32 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles, after blocking.
NEEDLES: 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 5 (3.75 mm) circular.  1 - set US 5 (3.75 mm) DPNs. 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 3 (3.25 mm) circular. 1 - 16” (40 cm) US 3 (3.25 mm) circular.  1 - set US 3 (3.25 mm) DPNs.
NOTIONS: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, stitch holder or waste yarn, 5 - 5/8” (1 cm) buttons.
SIZE: 32.75 (36.75, 40.75, 44.75, 48.75, 52.75, 56.75, 60.75)” [83 (93.5, 103.5, 113. 5, 124, 134, 144, 154.5) cm]. Sweater is designed to be worn with 2-6” (15.25 cm) finished ease. 
SKILLS: Working flat and in the round, maintaining simple stitch patterns.

Purchase Vera via Ravelry here.

HESTER 
Hester is constructed in pieces: a central panel of vertical rib is worked for the back yoke, then the left back yoke is worked out horizontally from that and set aside. The left front is worked horizontally, and the two pieces are joined to work the left sleeve to the cuff. The right yoke and sleeve is worked in the same fashion, but with the front worked first, then the back, then the sleeve. The front cast on edges are seamed together, and stitches are picked up in the body circumference and worked down. After completion, the shoulders are seamed and ribbing is picked up and worked out at the neckline.

YARN: The Fibre Co. Cumbria: grizedale forest, 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins.
GAUGE: 17 sts + 24 rnds = 4” (10 cm) in St st, after blocking.
NEEDLES: 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 8 (5 mm) circular.  1 - set US 8 (5 mm) DPNs. 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 6 (4 mm) circular.  1 - 16” (40 cm) US 6 (4 mm) circular. 1 - set US 6 (4 mm) DPNs. 
NOTIONS: Stitch markers, darning needle, stitch holder or waste yarn.
SIZE: 35.75 (40.5, 45.25, 49, 53.75, 58.25, 63, 66.75)” [91 (103, 115, 124.5, 136.5, 148, 160, 169.5) cm] finished bust. Sweater is designed to be worn with 2-6" (5-15.25 cm) ease. 
SKILLS: Working lace from charts, picking up stitches.

Purchase Hester via Ravelry here.
 

MYRTLE
Myrtle is worked in pieces and seamed. The front band ribbing is worked first, and then the fronts are picked up and knit sideways from them. The back and sleeves are knit flat from the bottom up. 

YARN: The Fibre Co. Cumbria: appleby castle, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) skeins.
GAUGE: 18 sts + 26 rows = 4” (10 cm) in St st on larger ndls, after blocking.
NEEDLES: 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 7 (4.5 mm) circular OR pair of straight needles. 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 6 (4 mm) circular OR pair of straight needles.
NOTIONS: Stitch markers, darning needle.
SIZE: 42.5 (46.5, 49.25, 52.5, 56.25, 61.5, 65.25, 69.5)” [108 (118, 125, 133.25, 142.75, 156.25, 165.75, 176.5) cm] bust. Sweater is designed to be worn with 8-12” (20-30.5 cm) positive ease. 
SKILLS: Picking up stitches, mattress stitch.

Purchase Myrtle via Ravelry here.

HYLDA
Hylda is worked as a top-down raglan, with a mesh and rib hourglass panel in the back. The raglan shaping for the back is incorporated into the mesh for the first part of the hourglass, and into the ribbing for the second part. After the raglan shaping is complete, the ribbing continues to increase, and stitches on the front are decreased to compensate. The hem is finished with 1x1 ribbing, and the sleeves are worked in stockinette to the 1x1 ribbing cuff. A neckband is then picked up and worked up from the original cast on. Unless otherwise specified, slip all markers as you come to them.

DESIGNER: Bristol Ivy
YARN: The Fibre Co. Cumbria (90% wool, 10% mohair; 238 yds/100 gm skein): windermere, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) skeins.
GAUGE: 18.5 sts and 27 rnds = 4” (10 cm) in St st on larger needles, after blocking.
NEEDLES: 1 - 32” (80 cm) US 6 (4 mm) circular.  1 - set US 6 (4 mm) DPNs.  1 - 32” (80 cm) US 5 (3.75 mm) circular.  1 - 16” (40 cm) US 5 (3.75 mm) circular.  1 - set US 5 (3.75 mm) DPNs. 
NOTIONS: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, stitch holder or waste yarn.
SIZE: 30.25 (34.25, 38, 41.25, 45, 49, 53, 56)” [76.75 (87, 96.5, 104.75, 114.25, 134.5, 142.25) cm] finished bust. Sweater is designed to be worn with no ease. 
SKILLS: Maintaining multiple stitch patterns at the same time, picking up stitches.

Purchase Hylda via Ravelry here.

All patterns are available for individual purchase via Ravelry download or at a Fibre Co./Kelbourne Woolens stockist near you. Stay tuned over the next few days for more posts about the designs in the collection, including images of Bristol's original design proposals, a tutorial on working Japanese Short Rows, and other lovely insights! - KGO

View the Bristol Ivy Collection
View more sweater patterns
View The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering
View The Fibre Co. Cumbria
 

All images by and © Carrie Bostick Hoge

 

 

Acadia Collection Feature: Fine Details

The last two designs we're featuring from the Acadia Collection this week is Beech Hill and Tumbledown Cove. Like the rest of the garments in the collection, both pieces are quite simple, but they each have unique details that take them up a level.

TUMBLEDOWN COVE
At its surface, Tumbledown Cove is a classic pullover, but the funnel neck, garter cuff, and lace hem elevate the sweater to something more. The set-in sleeves provide structure to the otherwise seamless garment. 

BEECH HILL
When Leah came into the office during the initial planning for this collection with the idea to knit Beech Hill (which at the time, she was calling "the blanket"), I admit, I was unconvinced. Once complete - and especially after seeing it on our gorgeous model - I was a convert!

The deep garter stitch edges anchor the otherwise simple design of the ruana. The thin garter stripes lengthen the wearer, and the ease and comfort of wear guarantee a flattering fit on everyone.

• View the Acadia Collection
• View more hat patterns
• View The Fibre Co. Acadia

- KGO